SKINPEDIA
The Acid Revolution:
Why These 4 Powerful Ingredients Could Transform Your Skin
For over 6 years, I've been developing effective skincare formulas and helping women understand the science behind them. I break down complex cosmetic science into simple terms because I believe everyone deserves to know what they put on their skin.
Laura Zackarya
The Smart Person's Guide to Skincare Acids: AHA, BHA, PHA & LHA Explained
In the ever-evolving world of skincare, acids have become essential ingredients for achieving healthy, glowing skin. Let's dive into the science behind these powerful compounds and understand how they can benefit your skincare routine.
The 4 families of skincare acids:
The first and most well known are the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) work primarily on the skin's surface layer, making them excellent for:
- Evening out skin tone
- Improving overall radiance
- Targeting fine lines
- Providing hydration
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), with salicylic acid being the most well-known, are oil-soluble acids that can:
- Penetrate deeper into pores
- Dissolve excess oil
- Fight bacteria
- Prevent breakouts and blackheads
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) are the gentler cousins of AHAs and BHAs, featuring:
- Larger molecular structure
- Slower, more superficial penetration
- Enhanced compatibility with sensitive skin
- Moisture-retaining properties
Lipohydroxy Acids (LHAs) are derivatives of salicylic acid that offer:
- Gentler exfoliation
- Slower penetration
- Better tolerance for sensitive skin
- Oil-soluble properties
How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin
The 4 families of skincare acids:
The first and most well known are the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) work primarily on the skin's surface layer, making them excellent for:
- Evening out skin tone
- Improving overall radiance
- Targeting fine lines
- Providing hydration
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), with salicylic acid being the most well-known, are oil-soluble acids that can:
- Penetrate deeper into pores
- Dissolve excess oil
- Fight bacteria
- Prevent breakouts and blackheads
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) are the gentler cousins of AHAs and BHAs, featuring:
- Larger molecular structure
- Slower, more superficial penetration
- Enhanced compatibility with sensitive skin
- Moisture-retaining properties
Lipohydroxy Acids (LHAs) are derivatives of salicylic acid that offer:
- Gentler exfoliation
- Slower penetration
- Better tolerance for sensitive skin
- Oil-soluble properties
Acid Type | Acids Included | Skin Type |
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) | Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, Citric acid | Normal to Dry |
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) | Salicylic acid | Oily or Acne-Prone |
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) | Gluconolactone, Lactobionic acid, Maltobionic acid, Galactose | Sensitive |
Lipohydroxy Acids (LHAs) | Lipohydroxy acid | Sensitive |
How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin
Skin Type | Recommended Acid | How It Works |
Normal to Dry | AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) | Surface-level exfoliation, provides hydration, improves texture and tone |
Oily or Acne-Prone | BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) | Cuts through oil effectively, unclogs pores, helps prevent breakouts |
Sensitive | PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) or LHAs (Lipohydroxy Acids) | Works gradually, causes less irritation, maintains skin barrier health |
REMEMBER
Remember that skincare is highly individual, and what works for others may not work for you.
Best Practices for Using Skincare Acids.
1. Start Slowly
- Begin with once or twice weekly applications
- Gradually increase frequency based on skin tolerance
- Monitor your skin's response
2. Sun Protection
- Always use broad-spectrum SPF during the day
- Acids can increase sun sensitivity
- Apply sunscreen even on cloudy days
3. Timing Matters
- Most acids work best in evening routines
- Allow time between acid application and other active ingredients
- Follow with appropriate moisturizer
4. Safety First
- Perform patch tests before full application
- Don't combine multiple acids without expert guidance
- Stop use if irritation occurs
Signs You're Using Too Many Acids
- Redness or inflammation
- Unusual dryness or flaking
- Increased sensitivity
- Burning or stinging sensations
- Breakouts in unusual areas
Final Thoughts
Remember that skincare is highly individual, and what works for others may not work for you. Start with gentle formulations and concentrations, and always listen to your skin's needs. When in doubt, consult with a skincare professional who can provide personalized recommendations based on your specific skin type and concerns.
For the love of skin science,
always yours, Laura Z.
1. Start Slowly
- Begin with once or twice weekly applications
- Gradually increase frequency based on skin tolerance
- Monitor your skin's response
2. Sun Protection
- Always use broad-spectrum SPF during the day
- Acids can increase sun sensitivity
- Apply sunscreen even on cloudy days
3. Timing Matters
- Most acids work best in evening routines
- Allow time between acid application and other active ingredients
- Follow with appropriate moisturizer
4. Safety First
- Perform patch tests before full application
- Don't combine multiple acids without expert guidance
- Stop use if irritation occurs
Signs You're Using Too Many Acids
- Redness or inflammation
- Unusual dryness or flaking
- Increased sensitivity
- Burning or stinging sensations
- Breakouts in unusual areas
Final Thoughts
Remember that skincare is highly individual, and what works for others may not work for you. Start with gentle formulations and concentrations, and always listen to your skin's needs. When in doubt, consult with a skincare professional who can provide personalized recommendations based on your specific skin type and concerns.
For the love of skin science,
always yours, Laura Z.